Everyone has their own way of dealing with summer in Sri Lanka, whether it’s rustlingfans, lightweight clothing, or a delightful summer treat enjoyed on the bustling streets or at home with family.

In SriLanka, summers aren’t as clearly defined as the traditional seasons in countries closer to the poles. But throughout the year, Sri Lanka experiences a mix of sporadic monsoons, followed by long and stretchy dry periods under the scorching sun. The typical summer begins in the month of April, usually lasting until the very end of August. It is during these months that cooling dishes and refreshing, ice-chilled drinks come to dominate the island’s kitchens.

From glasses full of cold saruwath (a brightly coloured drink made of basil seeds), to achcharu (pickled fruit) and warm cups of sago, it is during this period that traditional Sri Lankan summer specials made of abundant, seasonalin gredients gradually find their way into our dining tables. At Kolamba, our Sri Lankan cuisine restaurant in London, we are dedicated to recreating the flavours of Sri Lankan summers with a modern twist, like our curd and treacle combinations and refreshers made of guava, Ceylon tea and gooseberry.

Here are five Sri Lankan summer dishes to enjoy.

Saruwath

Saruwath takes centre stage as soon as the sun becomes a little too harsh in Sri Lanka. Tiny stalls appear here and there, along the roadside and in markets selling saruwath on searingly hot afternoons, with about a dozen vibrant glass bottles catching the eye of every passerby. Sweet and colourful, local vendors prepare this irresistible drink with a dollop of sugar syrup, kasa kasa (basil seeds), ice cubes, and fruit essence with occasional pieces of seasonal tropical fruits such as apples and pineapples.Variations of the recipe include a dash of lime, gooseberry, or rose syrup and soda for a unique twist, like the nelli mocktail we serve in our London restaurant. Everyone gathers around these stalls in summer for a quick sip of saruwath to quench their thirst.

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Saw kenda

Sago porridge – also known as saw kenda in Sinhala and saw kanji in Tamil – is an age-old cooling agent in hot summers. In indigenous medicine, sago is known as an ingredient that reduces our internal body heat, prevents heat rashes and improves hydration. Mostly found in tiny food stalls that stir to life every morning, sago porridge is a mildly sweet, light and comforting treat blended with thick coconut milk. At home, families enjoy making the porridge by boiling sago pearls in coconut milk with sugar or jaggery, naturally sweet, dark brown molasses made from the sap of kithul (fishtail palm) flowers.

For garnishing, we add a hint of cardamom, a handful of mung beans, and peanuts for better texture and richer flavours. While you can enjoy saw kenda piping hot, a chilled bowl of sago porridge beats down the summer heat like no other.

It’s also often common to switch between saw kenda and kola kenda, a thick gruel made of ground leafy greens, herbs, coconut milk, and boiled rice.

King coconut

King coconuts – locally called thambili –are easily identifiable by their golden orange husk, and are deeply tied to the island’s daily life. It thrives in local summer markets and pop-up stalls on the palm-fringed beaches. King coconuts are sliced open from the top, offering a natural refresher; and the water tastes a little sweeter than regular coconut water, and you’ll also find king coconut water served at our Sri Lankan restaurant, Kolamba East in London.

With hydrating components like electrolytes, minerals, and natural sugars, it’s not only a healthy thirst quencher, but a healing agent for those who are suffering from dehydration and fever. If you grab a king coconut, don’t also forget to scoop out the soft, jelly-like, white pulp of the fruit with a make-do spoon carved out of the husk. It’s the quintessential way to enjoy the king of all tropical treats.

Kiri pani

Served chilled in small terracotta clay pots, kiripani is another Sri Lankan summer coolant. The dish includes creamy, decadent buffalo curd topped with a generous drizzle of sweet treacle. Locally known as mee kiri, organic buffalo curd is homemade in Sri Lankan villages using fresh buffalo milk. The fermented curd is slightly tangy and earthy and pairs well with pani – or, treacle – made from the sap extracted from the flower of kithul or coconut palms, which adds a touch of slightly smoky sweetness. Often a popular, post-lunch dessert throughout the year, kiri pani becomes a regular visitor to our dining tables during the scorching summer months.  

Pani dodang

Pani dodang – a sweet orange variety – is a seasonal citrus that’s often enjoyed as it is or made into a chilled drink. In other words, it’s Sri Lanka’s summertime sweetness. Similar to certain other fruits in the citrus family, pani dodang, too, has tartier flesh and a soft, green peel. During March and April, the fruit flourishes in the markets and roadside hawkers appear with mountains of green oranges, and the signature sweet drink prepared in tall glasses.

This hydrating drink is made with a generous amount of the squeezed citrus fruit, sugar syrup, ice cubes, chilled water, and sometimes a dash of pepper and salt to spice things up. Tangy, sweet, slightly salty and subtly spicy, the sweet pani dodang helps us beat the heat on balmy evenings at home.

Achcharu

Achcharu is our everyday snack that comes in two variations: fruit achcharu and vegetable achcharu. At home, vegetable achcharu decorates beds of steamed rice and is a common accompaniment at lunchtime. But when things heat up, it’s the fruit achcharu that graces our street carts, made with seasonal produce like sweet mangoes, gooseberry, and ambarella (hog plum). On our Kolamba East menu is Pear Achcharu, a similar pickled fruit snack made of pears that are easily available in the UK.

Vendors often squeeze through the crowds on trains and buses carrying cut-up pieces of fruits in polythene bags, garnished with salt, chilli powder, vinegar, lime juice, and pepper. With a zesty, tarty punch of flavours, freshly pickled fruit brings out the simple joys of Sri Lankan summers.